Kaf's Suspension

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Here is a tutorial to make an independant front suspention, scaled to HL2 car size

Note : Everything is assumed to be nocollided with every other thing, and you should build it in the same facing as i show, since Advanced Ballsockets use map coordinates.

Building

First, spawn a PHX 1X beam, and lock it facing this way.
First, spawn a PHX 1X beam, and lock it facing this way.
Then spawn two cinderblocks, and place them flush with the beam.
Then spawn two cinderblocks, and place them flush with the beam.
Set your Adv. Ballsocket tool at no force limit, no friction, and -20 +20 on the X axis. Use -0.1 +0.1 for the other axes. Shoot a cinderblock in the top corner that's toutching the beam, then shoot the beam itself. Repeat for each corner on the top of the cinderblocks that's touching the beam.
Set your Adv. Ballsocket tool at no force limit, no friction, and -20 +20 on the X axis. Use -0.1 +0.1 for the other axes. Shoot a cinderblock in the top corner that's toutching the beam, then shoot the beam itself. Repeat for each corner on the top of the cinderblocks that's touching the beam.


Spawn another cinderblock, and place it vertically flush with the front end of the beam

Spawn a PHX beam 1X, and mirror the placement of the fisrt beam on the cinderblock. Once it's in place, weld the beams together and remove the front cinderblock.

Now you should temporarily weld the ballsocketed blocks to the bottom beam, then angle the whole contraption sightly foward.

Spawn 2 triangular traffic signs, and place them at the end of the cinderblocks, with the bottom facing foward and flush with the front of the cinderblock. Make sure the lower corner is flush with the bottom of the cinderblock

Modify the previous Adv. Ballsocket settings by adding a +30 -30 angle to the Z axis, keeping all other settings intact, and socket the bottom corner of each sign with the corresponding cinderblock.


Break out the rope tool, and set it to Rigid rope. Link the top corner of each sign to the top beam, while making sure the ropes are parallel to the cinderblocks and perpendicular to the beam.
Break out the rope tool, and set it to Rigid rope. Link the top corner of each sign to the top beam, while making sure the ropes are parallel to the cinderblocks and perpendicular to the beam.
Now use the wheel tool, sawblade model with 4 foward 6 reverse, set at 20000 power. Place the wheel on the centerline of thelower beam, at the place where the front of the cinderblocks connect to it.
Now use the wheel tool, sawblade model with 4 foward 6 reverse, set at 20000 power. Place the wheel on the centerline of thelower beam, at the place where the front of the cinderblocks connect to it.
Snap the wheel so the notch in it aligns with the beam, then use the rope tool still in rigid mode to link the back of the wheel with the back corner of the signs.
Snap the wheel so the notch in it aligns with the beam, then use the rope tool still in rigid mode to link the back of the wheel with the back corner of the signs.
Now get the Elastic tool, and set it at 10000 constant, 1000 damping, and link each side of the wheel to the back of the lower beam.
Now get the Elastic tool, and set it at 10000 constant, 1000 damping, and link each side of the wheel to the back of the lower beam.


You can now unfreeze the contraption, and unweld the cinderblocks.

Get the Weight tool, and set each part at 150 weight (you will need to fiddle with this depending on the weight of the finished car). You should now have a working direction.

With the elastic tool set at 100,000 constant and 6000 damping, link the end of the cinderblocks with the top beam, amking sure the elastics are perpendicular to it. (You'll probably need to adjust this too depending on weight, but don't go higher than 6000 damping, or it'll spazz out)
With the elastic tool set at 100,000 constant and 6000 damping, link the end of the cinderblocks with the top beam, amking sure the elastics are perpendicular to it. (You'll probably need to adjust this too depending on weight, but don't go higher than 6000 damping, or it'll spazz out)


You can now attach wheels to the signs (I recommend car wheels, bound at 8 and 5, placed on the lower corner where the white part of the sign meets the red border)
You can now attach wheels to the signs (I recommend car wheels, bound at 8 and 5, placed on the lower corner where the white part of the sign meets the red border)

Congratulations, you now have a (hoppefully) working independant front suspention, with steering. You can now attach it to your car, by welding the 2 central beams to it.


The rear suspention is simpler, you don't need to add the +30 -30 on the Z axis to socket the signs, you don't need the center wheel and associated ropes and elastics, andyou don't need to tilt the whole thing foward before socketing the signs. Everything else is the same.

Finished Product

Here is the finished product


As you can see it fits perfectly under a HL2 car
As you can see it fits perfectly under a HL2 car
Another example
Another example
Wheeeeeee!
Wheeeeeee!
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